Refroidissement des freins e36

[Invité ///Mr.DRFT]

E36 Installation

Below are some general pictures and explanations of how to install our brake cooling kits on an E36. These instructions inform you of the basic format of how to install the hose and backing plates while retaining the stock air ducts. Aftermarket ducts can be installed in place of the fog lights as an option.

First, jack the car up and rest the car back down onto jack stands. Remove the wheel and then remove the caliper. You need to remove the caliper bracket from the strut, not the caliper from the bracket. The caliper will come off with the bracket. Don't let the caliper hang - rest it on a paint can, box, etc... , or hang it from a bent up coat hanger.

Next, remove the disc. The disc is held in place with a 6mm allen bolt. Try some Liquid Wrench or WD-40 if the bolt is stuck; these products soak in to help loosen the seize.

Once the disc is removed you will see the existing stock backing plate. You will need to remove this to allow for the new backing plate to be installed. The new backing plate uses the stock backing plate's mounting location. This is easy so don't fear.

Next, remove the ABS sensor with a 5mm allen, then remove the three bolts to allow the plate to move freely. Bend the steel with pliers where needed to make access to cutting easier. The pliers supplied in the tool kit of the car work quite well. You can use the cutting disc of a dremel or some metal snips to make the cut. It is very easy to cut because the metal is very soft. The trick with all this is to use ingenuity. Once you have cut across the section, you need to bend the backing to a "c" section in order to slide it off.

Once the splash guard is removed, you can now install the new backing plates. Use locktite blue to prevent these bolts from backing out.

Now that the new backings are in place, it is time to install the duct work. Remove the fender plastic and lower undertray piece. There are 9 8mm bolts holding these pieces on. You must remove the ABS sensor wire cover (on the frame of the car) to obtain the last 10mm plastic nut on the fender plastic.

Next, for the M3, draw a 3" circle on the fender plastic for the hose. The hole should be 3/4" from the edge and centered up and down. You can run the hose through this hole or install the optional coupler as shown (highly recomended, see below). For Z cars, you must use the coupler, as the hole is offest so that it is half in the plastic, and half off.

Here is the installed coupler on the M3. When this coupler is used, you can supply the brakes with fresh air on the street without the additional section of hose connected to the backing plate, thus avoiding picking up trash from the road.

This feature allows our ducting kit to keep the design the factory intended for normal street use. The section of hose going to the backing plate can also be more easily installed for track weekends.

This picture shows the required modification to the factory duct to allow the use of the new 3" ducting hose. Cut the duct in half as shown using a hacksaw or similar device. Note - You will need to relocate the sensors to the portion of the duct that remains on the car.

Here is shown the relocated sensor, as well as the placement for the hose section inside the newly modified duct

Next connect the other end of the hose to the coupler with a hose clamp and reinstall the fender liner

Finally, install the final section of hose from the flange to the backing plate. This can easily be done when switching tires at the track. Note - you will need to mount your wheel and determine how much steering movement the hose will allow (approximately 1 full turn). This is not a problem on the track, but it is easy to rub the hose causing premature wear in the paddock by turning to full lock.

Kit de refroidissement en vente sur ce site www.bimmerworld.com

[M3RS2]

Système intéressant, mais attention faisable que si l'on met que du 28 mm d'épaisseur de disque, où l'on peut mettre une tôle de protection même modifiée, alors que si le disque est en 32 mm, impossible de mettre une tôle car elle toucherait la rotule de triangle inférieur.

Ensuite, gare à ce que la roue en tournant n'aille pas toucher le boa, ce qui me semble être le cas sur les dernières photos. Lorsque la voiture est sur ses roues, il ne reste pas beaucoup de place entre la roue lorsqu'elle est braquée et la barre anti-roulis. Donc bien choisir le diamètre de son boa, ni trop gros, il ne passera pas, ni trop petit et il alimentera mal en air frais, ce qui n'est pas le but.